Aosta Hiking 2018:

Our first hike is one that starts from the campsite. It climbs steadily until we reach a nice view at about 2000m altitude. There are white rocks and that is why this point is also called Mount Blanc. We did this hike last year as well, but now take the short route back to keep our muscles in good shape.

An early start to avoid climbing during the hottest time of the day. Soon we arrive at an altitude of 2200m and we have a first long break. I saw already a big bird in the sky, and when we continued, it came in our direction. Luckily it decided to take a different direction at about 6 meters distance. Its face looked like an owl, but with a wingspan of several meters. Later we learned that this bird was a 'lammergier'. We continued our hike and about 1 hour later we spotted up to 15 Alpine Ibex or in Dutch'steenbokken'. That kept us busy taking pictures until we finally went on. Soon we found out that the lake is still frozen and covered by snow. The way back is identical and the views are superb.

After 2 day hikes, we take a day rest and only go for an easy hike to Introd. Unfortunately the easy path next to the old water canel is blocked by trees from last winter's avalanches. In less then 2 hours we are back at the campsite. We have a drink, take a shower and then I prepare a healthy diner: Eggs, Unions, Patatoes and a lot of garlic.

Early morning we leave Val di Rheme and enter the next valley Valgrisenche. We park the car near Bonne and start hiking through the forrest. Our target is Rifugio de l'Epee. Several fallen trees try to block our way, but we manage to climb over these or simply found a bypass. Soon we have a nice view on the big lake in the valley. We continue climbing and the next stage is when we reach the altitude where trees won't grow. The views are great on this hike. Soon we reach the Rifugio. We have a warm soup and continue on our way back via an other route. This route leads us through the shade (forest) back. A small hick-up: We can see the path where we hiked this morning, but the path to get there (last 200 meters) is missing. We take a random route through the fields, and reach the trail. From there the path goes down and we are back at the car. That evening we spoke another couple that did exactly the same trail, and experienced exactly the same issue of a missing path. From the old-white-church there is no path anymore. Their solution was similar. Just go through the meadows until you reach the morning trail.

Today the weather forecast is rain, so we decide to visit Aosta and maybe find something to recharge our cameras and phones. We park our car at the skilift and walk to the old town. The city is nice with a lot of history. We have lunch in the city and finish with Italian Ice. Now I understand why you see everywhere in the Netherlands Ice stores claiming they have Italian Ice. This is the best ever. The rain apparently didn't come and soon we drive back to the campsite. Tomorrow will be a hiking day.

Last year we did this hike also and we really liked it. Soon after the first hour climb, the view gets wide open and nice. Slowly but steadily we climb the mountain and leave the valley behind. One thing that is different is that there are way more flowers. So it was double worth it. We started early (as usual) and by the time the sun started burning, we had already climbed 600m.

At 6:45 we leave the campsite and drive 35 minutes to Valsavarenche and park the car in Bien. Today we want to hike up to Rifugio Chabod, continue to Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II and go down to the car. We know this will be a long stretch, so better start early. The path up is well signed (almost a US trail) and after 3 hours we arrive at Rfugio Chabod. We take the time for a coffee/tea. From this hut a lot of alpinist climb the Gran Paradiso. We will not do that, as that is a long trail up to 4200m, with special gear, as you have to go accross snow/ice/glaciers. From the hut we can observe the brave men/women. Soon we continue. We will stay at about 2500m and a trail of several hours leads us to Rifugio Vittorio Emmanuele II. The track is difficult as it is covered with big blocks/stones. So we only make slow progress. Late after lunch (I think around 2) we arrive. This rifugio is crowded. We estimate over 100 people are around. We have some vegetablesoup and tea. Soon we continue on the high way back to the valley. The last part is the least interesting, as the view is quite limited and there are lots of people. We are glad we started going up at the other side. Around 4.30 we are back at the car and look back at a very satisfying day.

Yesterday was a long day with close to 10 hours hiking. Today we take a day off and prepare for tomorrow. The plan is to take my big backpack, fill it, and stay at a hut. We spoke with the campsite manager (Jean-Paul) and he advised Rifugio degli Angeli. A phone call and we have a reservation for tomorrow night. A private room...whatever that means. Now we start packing. Soon we are ready. We have a good evening meal and go to bed early. Tomorrow is a hike to 2920m altitude.

We wake up early. A few coffees and a breakfast further, we pack the last things in the car and leave for Valgrisenche. We park the car a few kilometers past Bonne. At 8:45 we leave the car behind and start to climb from 1870m altitude. That means we have to climb just over 1km, which should not be a problem. The new thing is that 2900m is the heighest altitude this vacation. Soon we will experience what that is. After an hour we have left the last trees behind and a valley with many undeep waters appears. It is beautiful. The description warned us to only follow the path on the right, as the others would lead to a rim with an old ruine (visible), but not to the hut. At around 2500m the first snow appears. Soon we are trying to find our way accross the snow. We sometimes miss the track for 10 or 20 meters, but then we find it back. Suprisingly fast we are on the top. After 3 hours and 37 minutes we arrive at Rifugio degli Angeli and get a warm welcome. Outside there is a lot of sun and a lot of wind. After half an hour we go inside to avoid freezing. The hut is managed by 2 volunteer families. Only Italian and a little French with the older kids, and even less English with one adult. Around 4 the alarm goes off. That means. A phone call from another hut that a guest has not arrived, nor is in sight. That guest left this morning this Rifugio. The 2 man pack heavy gears, flash light, food, warm clothes and start running up the mountain to the gletcher. Soon the walkie-talkie sounds that they found the Spanish old guy stuck in the snow trench. Good they came to rescue as this man was already uncooled and not reacting properly. The food is served a little later and the Spanish guy joins as well. Later we found he put his clothes to dry in our room, and he took Marjorie her dirty shirt and started wearing it. Clearly he lost his mind. As he got his own room as well and must have gotten lost. There was some laughter after all the confusion was gone, and soon we said goodnight and went to bed.

After a good night sleep and a good breakfast (even for Marjorie!) we pack and depart. Our way back is a different one. A relative flat but long track. We have to cross a lot of snow, and it takes us 3 hours to decline below 2400 meters. Several times we lost the trail and had to look around for hints where the track is. Our maps helped us a lot. Crossing the snow was interesting as well. Sometimes we avoided it, as we heart water streaming under the snow layer. It took us a lot of energy. On our way down we were lucky to see a "sneeuwhoen" or Rock ptarmigan in English. and young Alpine Ibex or in Dutch "steenbokken". Finally after 3 hours the first people came accross our path up. From that point the path became much easier and we made it back at the car. This decline was way more exhaustive then the way up yesterday. But we are happy we stayed over and experienced this.

Yesterday evening we learn that the "Spanish rescued man" took some more clothes. These were found hanging close to the stove in the eating room. Some guests will come down and bring it. We decide to go back to Valgrisenche and hike to Lac de fond. It is supposed to be an easy hike, with great views. Unfortunately the path leads us accross steep hillslopes and Marjorie does not like that. After several hours we arrive at Lac du Fond. We stay there for an hour and decide to slowly walk back. From the Lac you can see nicely another part of the glacier. The way down is rather easy, but don't be afraid of heights. Soon we are back at the car. We drive to Bonne where we will wait for the other guest to bring the clothes. Around 5 the guest arrives and we have our clothes back. We drive back to Val di Rhemes.

Today is our last hiking day. We have many hikes left, but decide not to go for a challange and a late return like last year (7PM at car!). We settled for Col Nivolet. It was in 2007 the first hike of a 7 days hiking tour (see: http://knussel.net/2007/GranParadiso/GranParadiso.html). I did not remember a lot, except that it was easy and not the most exceptional days of that week. As usual we left early. So early that we found cows and sheeps on our road. Later that day, when we returned from the top, both herds reached the top as well. This hike starts going up steep, but after a few hours reaches an alpine meadow. This meadow is completely different then all other hikes we have done. We have to cross a lot of undeep waters. At the end of the meadow is a short climb and then we arrive at Col Nivolet. There are 2 huts. The one I stayed in 11 years ago (Rifugio Citta di Chivasso) is the higher one. We stopped at the first hut. After some drinks and food we return. We noticed 2 bicyclist taking the same path. First we help out with the cows. There is a tiny group of 6 young cows (puberty) that don't want to listen and each time go back. The well trained dogs bring the escaped cows back each time. It takes a long time to make a few meters progress on this wide meadow. Plenty of room to escape. And water is undeep enough to cross. We continue on the way down, and there we meet 1 of the 2 guys with a bike. This one has loaded his bike, and that is very difficult on these steep paths. Marjorie and I help him to decent the last 500 meters. He is very happy. We make a picture and then we return to the car. Another good deed done.

We left early this morning....that was the intention. But the campsite owners insisted on drinking a cup of coffee with us. We said goodbye and thanked for their hospitality. Around 9 we finally left. Soon we were in Aosta and there we caught up with a bicyclist. We stopped the car and waived. He did to. 'Picolo Mondo' was what he said. Communication yestereday was very limited. But it was clear he wanted to drink a coffee with us as a thank you for yesterday. And there was this bar 10 meters away. We drank an Espresso, said again goodbye and finally were on our way home.